I have heard that the market average for spa pump motor is about 8 years. When the motor goes, you have a choice– replace just the motor, or purchase the entire pump.
The exact same with the wet end, or the opposite end of the pump, you might just change a new damp end onto the existing motor. We have a large stock of parts for spa pumps, to fix practically any pump issue.
However … if you ‘d rather not get your hands dirty, and prefer to just replace the entire pump– motor and wet end, then this post is for you. Here’s the best ways to change a normal spa pump, wired into a spa pack.
1. Inspect the Frame, Horsepower, Voltage & Speed
You don’t wish to set up the wrong pump, so get out your reading glasses and a flashlight, and check the label on the pump motor. Try to find FR which suggests frame type (48 or 56), HP for horsepower( 1– 5), Voltage (115 or 230) and Speed (single or dual). Change your existing pump with the same size and type spa pump.
Pay attention to how the pump discharge is oriented, is it on the side, or on the leading? These are 2 different damp ends. The side discharge spa pump can be turned to different locations by loosening the volute screws, but the center discharge is leading dead center– 12:00.
If you have questions on selecting the proper spa pump, please call or email us!
2. Shut down the Power
Don’t take possibilities, discover the correct breaker that feeds the spa and shut it off. Use a piece of tape over the breaker so that nobody inadvertently turns it back on. After shutting off the breaker, test to be sure that power is off, then you can continue to take apart and eliminate the existing pump.
3. Disconnect Old Spa Pump
Start with getting rid of the bare copper bonding wire that is connected to the pump. Now, assuming that the spa is drained pipes, or you have valves near to prevent the water from running out, slowly loosen the union nuts on the incoming and outgoing water connections of the spa pump. 1-10 gallons of water will drain pipes out, so be prepared if your spa is located indoors.
If your spa pump is bolted to the floor, use a wrench or socket to get rid of the bolts on the motor footpad.
When you can move the pump, position it to offer you simple access to the wires coming into the back of the motor. Open the cover plate and you will discover 3-wires for a single speed pump, and 4-wires for a two-speed spa pump. With a screwdriver, nut driver or needle nose, you can get rid of the wires from their terminal screws, and after loosening the cable clamp on the motor, carefully pull the wire cable out of the existing motor.
For a two-speed motor, note or label the high speed and low speed wires, to wire properly to the brand-new motor. Get out your glasses and flashlight once again, you’ll discover the terminal screws are labeled in very tiny print.
4. Link New hot tub Pump
You’ll find it much easier to wire the motor before you slide the pump below the spa. Make similar connections to the brand-new pump. For two-speed motors, low speed is typically Red, common is White and high speed is Black, and green is naturally is green. However, if the wires are not an actual spa pump cable, the colors might be various. Compare the wire color to the markings on the terminal board.
Remove the pump cable clamp from the old motor and screw it into the wire access port of the new motor. Place the pump cord through the clamp, and link the wires to the terminals.
Tighten up the pump cord clamp where the wires go into the rear of the motor, and replace the motor end cap or cover.
Next, you can thread on the union nuts to the new spa pump, making sure that the o-ring is still undamaged, and has actually not fallen out. Utilizing a rubber pad underneath the pump can assist minimize it even further.
Reconnect the bare copper bonding wire to the bonding lug on your brand-new spa pump.
5. Testing a New Spa Pump
Once the pipes on the pump is tightened up, you can start to fill the spa. When you have the spa about half complete, open the valves and loosen up the inbound spa union to enable any air lock to get away, and tighten up securely when water starts to drip. Continue to fill the spa full, while searching for any leakages around the new spa pump.
When the spa is full, switch on the breaker to evaluate your spa pump, running through it’s rates. Make certain that your heating unit kicks on and that everything looks and sounds correct.
A relatively simple procedure, but if you need any assistance in changing spa and hot tub pumps, we have spa techs waiting waiting for your call or email!
No matter which company you purchase you swim spa from they will offer a traditional rigid foam filled spa cover. And just like every other foam filled cover ever made, those panels will eventually begin to saturate with moisture from the steam coming off the spa water, until they are too heavy to lift.
Bar lifters won’t help once the cover becomes too heavy either because you will still have to flop it over the bar while trying not to strain yourself. Then push it off the end of the spa. When the cover is heavy it will either rip itself apart (because the seam of the cover is not built to handle the added weight) or worse it will rip the bar lifter off the sides of your spa potentially causing damage to the spa cabinet.
The SpaCap Swim Spa Covers by contrast, don’t employ foam so there is nothing to soak up the moisture. They are built to stay lightweight and easy to use. Visit SpaCap.com and order one for your swim spa today.